Drafting patterns for basic bodice (sloper)
According to the instructions on this page patterns for
basic bodice are drafted using the Scandinavian pattern drafting system.
To keep the instructions simple, only centimeters are used.
Have your measurements taken according to the instructions
on pages http://www.leenas.com/../English/measure_women.html
and http://www.leenas.com/../English/measuring_check.html.
Here are some table measurements you need. All
measurements are given in centimeters.
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TABLE MEASUREMENTS cm
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Size
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32
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34
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36
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38
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40
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42
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44
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46
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48
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50
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52
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54
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Bust
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76
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80
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84
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88
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92
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96
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100
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104
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110
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116
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122
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128
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Bust dart
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4,3
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5,1
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5,8
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6,6
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7,3
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8,1
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8,8
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9,6
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10,8
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12,1
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13,3
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14,6
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Armscye height
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20,4
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20,8
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21,2
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21,6
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22
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22,4
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22,8
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23,2
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23,8
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24,4
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25
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25,6
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Front shoulder height
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4,6
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4,4
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4,2
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4
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3,8
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3,6
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3,4
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3,2
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3
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2,8
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2,6
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2,4
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Back shoulder height
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2,35
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2,4
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2,45
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2,5
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2,55
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2,6
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2,65
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2,7
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2,75
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2,8
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2,85
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2,9
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Add ease to the measurements of the subject according to the table
below. IMPORTANT! When proceeding, always use measurements where
ease has been added.
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EASE cm
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+
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=
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1/2
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Bust
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8
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Back width
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1,6
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Waist
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6
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Abdomen
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4
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-
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Hip
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4
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Do the following calculations to get some extra measurements.
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CALCULATIONS cm
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=
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+/-
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=
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-1.5
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Bust span
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(bust+ease)/5
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0
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-1.0
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+0.5
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-0.5
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Drafting the patterns
Draft a frame according to picture below.
 1-2
= bust circumference divided by 2
2-3 = armscye height
2-4 = back length
4-5 = abdomen height
4-6 = hip height
1-7 = back width divided by 2
7-8 = armscye width
Mark points from 9 to 18
4-19 = bust span divided by 2
19-20 = waist height minus bust height
2-21 = neck width (refer to calculations)
Draft vertical lines upwards from points 2 and 21. Trace point 22 on
line from point 21; 20-22 = bust height minus back neck length (refer
to calculations).
8-23 = front shoulder height; draft horizontal line from point 23 to
the right; mark point 24 on the line
7-25 = back shoulder height; draft horizontal line from point 25 to the
left; mark point 26 on the line
1-27 = neck width (same as 2-21; refer to calculations); draft verticl
line from 27 upwards
Move point 1 0.5 cm upwards
27-28 = 2.5 cm; draft back neck arc 1-28
28-29 = shoulder length + 2 cm (point 29 must be on line 25-26)
Draft horizontal line from point 22 to the left, get point 22a
22a-22b = neck depth (refer to calculations)
28-30 = 7 cm
30-31 = 3 cm
Measure 4 cm from point 28 on line 28-29 and move uppwards 0.6 cm to
get point 32
Measure 2 cm from point 32 on line 28-29 and move uppwards 0.6 cm to
get point 33
Draft an arc with radius of bust height minus neck length, center point
20
Draft an arc with radius of bust dart (refer to table measurements),
center point 22
Mark point 34 at the intersection of these arcs.
34-35 = shoulder length (point 35 must be on line 23-24)
Draft vertical line downwards from 31 to get points 36 and 37
37-38 = 5 cm
Mark point 39.
Mark point 39a. 39a-39b = 2 cm
Measure distance 4-13. Subtract waist circumference divided by 2 from
this distance. Divide result by 6 = a.
39-40 = a
39-41 = a
16-42 = a
16-43 = a
19-44 = a
18-45 = a
Draft vertical line from point 19 downwards to get points 46 and 47
47-48 = 5 cm
Measure distance 6-15. Subtract this distance from hip circumference
divided by 2. Divide the result by 2 = b.
18-49 = b
18-50 = b
9-51 = 1/4 distance 8-9
10-52 = 1/2 distance 7-10
Draft Center Front piece 22b - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 46 - 48 - 45 - 20 - 22
Draft Front Side piece 34 - 20 - 44 - 48 - 46 - 49 - 17 - 43 - 11 - 51
- 35
Draft Back piece 1 - 28 - 32 - 31 - 33 - 29 - 52 - 11 - 42 - 17 - 50
- 36 - 15 - 14 - 13 - 12
Draft back waist dart 39b - 41 - 38 - 40.
Rotate bust dart 4 cm to the left according to the picture.
To get instructions of how to draft patterns for a basic sleeve, click
here.
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