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Tutorials 
Leena's Pattern Drafting Lesson:


Body measurement 
Body measurement + ease 
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE 
* 
+ 4 cm= 
HIP CIRCUMFERENCE 
* 
+ 4 cm= 
INSIDE SEAM LENGTH 
* 

OUTSIDE SEAM LENGTH 
* 

KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE 
* 

CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE 
* 

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS:
Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.

Body measurement 
Divided by 4 
Divided by 20 
Waist circumference 
* 


Hip circumference 
* 
* 
* 
Knee circumference 
* 
* 

Cuff circumference 
* 
* 

Draw a frame first . Follow the numbers in the picture.
12 = Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the outside length of the pants. Draw a horizontal line from point 1 to the right. This is the waist line . Draw a horizontal line from point 2 to the right. This is the cuff line .
23 = Measure up from point 2 on the cuff line a distance equal to the inside lenght. Draw a horizontal line from point 3 to the right. This is the crotch line.
4 = Find the point midway between the crotch line and the cuff line (between points 2 and 3). Draw the horizontal knee line 6 cm above this point.
5 = Measure up from point 3 a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease. Draw the horizontal hip line from point 5 to the right.
6 = Measure from point 5 to the right a distance equal to 1/4 * hip circumference + ease + 1 cm.
7 = Measure from point 6 to the right a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease+ 1 cm.
8 = Find the point midway between points 5 and 7.
9, 10, 11, 12 = Draw vertical lines up and down from point 8. This is the center line of the pants' legs.
13, 14 = Draw vertical lines up and down from point 6.
15, 16 = Measure from point 11 to the right and to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * knee circumference  1 cm. Draw a utility line from point 5 to point 16 . The line from point 15 to point 16 form the knee line.
17, 18 = Measure from point 12 to the right and to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * cuff circumference  1 cm. The line from point 17 to 18 form the cuff line.
20 = draw a line from point 7 to point 15, and you get point 20.
21 = Measure from point 14 up a distance equal to 1/2 of the distance between points 14 and 20
Now you are ready to draw the front piece according to the picture. When drawing the legs, curve a bit inwards between the crotch and the knee.
22 = Measure 0.5 to 1 cm from point 13 to the left.
23 = Measure from point 22 to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * waist circumference + ease
24 = Measure 1 cm up from point 23
Draw the back piece pattern in the same frame with the front piece.
25 = Measure from point 8 to the right a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease + 1 cm and up a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease  1 cm
26 = Measure from point 25 to the left a distance equal to 1/4 * hip circumference + ease and down a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease  1 cm. Line from point 25 to point 26 form the hip line of the back pant.
27 = Measure from point 8 to the right a distance equal to that between points 8 and 26
15 > 28 = 2 cm
17 > 29 = 2 cm
16 > 30 = 2 cm
18 > 31 = 2 cm
32 = Measure from point 9 to the right 3 cm and up a distance equal to 1/20 * hip circumference + ease 1.5 cm
33 = measure from point 32 a distance equal to 1/4 * waist so that point 33 will be on the waist line (from point 1 horizontally to the left)
34 = Draw a line from point 27 to 28 and you get point 34. Lower this point 1.5 cm. Back crotch curve will be 1.5 cm below the front crotch curve and thus the back piece inseam length measured from the crotch to the knee will be 1.5 cm shorter than that of the front inseam . The reason for this is that it reduces the amount of fabric under the buttocks in order to achieve a better fit of the back pant. You must stretch the back inseam from the crotch to the knee when attaching it to the front inseam.
Now you are ready to draw the back piece according to the picture. When drawing the legs, curve a bit inwards between the crotch and the knee.
You notice that the patterns are drafted without waist darts. This suits for most men. If you want to add pleats to the front piece  they are commonly used  add the desired width of the pleats to the front piece waist measurement and draw the pleats to the pants front waist to the left from the center line.
Sewing instructions are also included on this web site.
To view them
click here
.
C opyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki