Creating Grading Table With PatternMaker Macros

PatternMaker macros have been programmed using the Scandinavian pattern drafting system. Therefore you need to use the Scandinavian default measurements for grading the patterns you have drafted with it.

Run the basic bodice macro in two sizes, one smaller (e.g. size 40) and one the next bigger (size 42). Position the pattern pieces so that they meet at CF and CB lines and at hem. Then draw the grading arrows from the vertices of the smaller size to the corresponding vertices of the bigger size. Use snap to end point to be exact (CtrlF3).

You have to use the Scandinavian measurements , other standard measurements sets might not have all the measurements needed. To convert the Scandinavian sizes into the American ones, compare the bust circumference measurements.

Follow the instructions below:

Run the basic bodice macro with the default measurements (Scandinavian 42) on layer 1. Before running the macro change layer 1 to be the current layer. Click on the black box at the top part of the screen with Layer0 text on. Then click in the current column of layer 1 in the dialog box opened. Click "Done" to accept the choice.

Then run the basic bodice macro with the measurements for Scandinavian size 40 to layer 0. Use the measurements in the attached table. Before running the macro change layer 0 to the current layer.

Move the pattern pieces so that they meet at the CF and the CB lines and at hems. Move the sleeve pieces so that they meet at the left side cuff vertex. Remember to choose also the center line of the sleeve when you do the moving.

Draw grading arrows from the vertices of the smaller size to the vertices of the bigger size. First point the vertex of the smaller size with the left button of the mouse and accept the choice with the right button of the mouse. Then point the corresponding vertex of the bigger size with the left button of the mouse and accept the choice with the right button of the mouse. Use snap to end point to be exact (CtrlF3). It is enough to add grading arrows to the corners of the pieces.

E.g. in the back piece you should add grading arrows to the following vertices:

• Back side hem vertex

• Armpit vertex of the armscye

• Shoulder tip at the armscye

• Shoulder vertex at the neck opening

• Back neck point at the neck opening

Add grading tacks to the following vertices of the back piece:

• The hem point of the CB

• The CB point which is on the same vertical level with the armpit vertex i.e. the last but one vertex before the neck vertex on the CB line from hem to neck.

Add grading arrows to all vertices of the back waist dart.

Add a grading tack to the left cuff point. Add grading arrows to both ends of the sleeve center line.

Please note that you have to add grading tacks to the vertices which are one on top of each other in both sizes. Because a grading tack "is valid" to the following grading tack, it is enough to add grading tacks to the utmost of these vertices. Read more about adding grading arrows and tacks from the PatternMaker user's manual.

After having added all the grading arrows and tacks run command Grade/Grade on layer 0. When choosing the pieces to be graded, choose the pieces of the smaller size. You can choose all the pieces one by one for simultaneous grading. After having chosen all the pieces clicking on them with the left button of the mouse, confirm the choice with the right button of the mouse. Type as the amount of sizes to be graded e.g. and leave the increment to

This way you would get pattern pieces to Scandinavian sizes 42, 44, 46 and 48. On layer 1 there will be the patterns for size 42 two times: the ones you drafted at the beginning of this exercise running the macro with the default measurements and the graded ones. If you have added the grading arrows and tacks correctly the pattern pieces are exactly the same. If not, you have made a mistake. Check the grading arrows and tacks.

Please note that in real life the grading rules from size 40 to 48 are not consistent. So the patterns graded in this exercise are not correct. To make a correct grading table for all the sizes run the basic bodice macro with the measurements of all the sizes by turns. The lengths of the grading arrows can then be measured from the basic bodices in different sizes.

The simplest way to make a grading table to be used with the PatternMaker patterns is to make a grading table with sizes 40 and 42 and open it in a text editor giving the grading rules for other sizes typing them in the table. This grading table can be read to any patterns drafted with the PatternMaker macros for top garments (jackets, dresses, blouses, vests).

Create a similar grading table for the skirts and for the pants.

Copyright 1998 Leena Lahteenmaki